Have you ever wondered, “Can I grow Mimosa Hostilis at home?” Absolutely! With our pack of 10 Mimosa Hostilis seeds, you’re just a few steps away from cultivating this stunning plant in your own space.
Our seeds are carefully selected for their high germination rate and are housed in a charming glass potion bottle with a cork, adding a touch of whimsy to your gardening journey. This compact packaging not only ensures the seeds’ safety but also makes it a perfect gift for the green thumbs in your life.
While our product focuses on providing you with quality seeds, we understand that successful cultivation requires more than just that. That’s why, right below the product description, you’ll find a comprehensive cultivation guide. This guide will walk you through each step of the process, from planting the seeds to caring for the mature plant.
Embark on your home gardening journey with our Mimosa Hostilis seeds and experience the joy of watching your very own Mimosa Hostilis grow. Your adventure starts here!
Mimosa Hostilis Cultivation Guide
Scientific Name: Mimosa tenuiflora (syn. Mimosa hostilis)
Plant Family: Fabaceae
Native Range: Northern Brazil to Mexico
Native Climate Zone: Dry Tropics
Plant Type: Small Tree or Shrub
Mimosa tenuiflora is a small shrub-like tree native to dry tropical climates from northern Brazil to Mexico. It is considered a pioneer species that can thrive in recently disturbed areas like those affected by wildfires. It is a nitrogen-fixing plant and does well in poor to marginal soils.
The native climate of M. tenuiflora is typically characterized by warm weather (68°F to 86°F, or 20°C to 30°C) and a well-defined dry and wet season. During the rainy season, rainfall can easily exceed 60 inches, while during the dry season, there can be little to no rain for weeks at a time.
M. hostilis growing in its native habitat in Brazil
Generally speaking, M. hostilis is a very hardy plant that can adapt itself to a wide range of growth conditions. Once established, plants require no irrigation, fertilization, or really any maintenance at all.
M. hostilis is most commonly propagated by seed. In nature, M. hostilis seeds are adapted to lay dormant in the soil until the conditions for germination appear. To improve the germination rate and time, scarification, a process in which the outer seed coat is mechanically damaged can be conducted.
Scarification can be done in numerous ways, but the simplest is to simply rub the seed on a low-grit sandpaper or file. Do this on the bottom part of the seed, away from the point. Only sand the seed coat gently to not damage the embryo on the inside. Alternatively, seeds can also be delicately cut with a knife or clippers along the seed coat. Some sources suggest soaking seeds for 3-4 hours in freshly boiled water, and while this is performed with other species of Mimosa, it may actually decrease your germination rate with M. hostilis.
Scarification of Acacia seeds
Seeds can also be cut, although this may risk damaging the embryo if you are not careful.
Once your seed is scarified, you can soak it in warm water for 24 hours (to speed up germination time) or plant it directly.
Preparing Your Soil
The importance of having the right soil type cannot be overstated. This is the most important factor that will influence the health of your plant. Even if you do everything else right, the wrong soil can lead to failure! In the case of M. hostilis, it is crucial to have really well-draining soil, as this plant does not do well with waterlogging. Low drainage impedes root growth and can promote various root-borne illnesses, which will manifest in slow growth and potentially disease.
If you want to buy some premade soil mix, consider using soil meant for succulents and cacti. These are well-draining, porous, and typically contain fewer nutrients than typical potting mixes. This is perfect for starting seeds, and once your plant is properly developed, it could be transplanted into slightly more nutrient-rich soil. Generally speaking, though, M. hostilis does great on marginal, low-nutrient substrates.
Alternatively, you can take an existing potting soil mix and add sand, perlite, vermiculite, or another well-draining substrate. If using sand, make sure it is not mixed with any other sediments. You can simply place it in a bucket and rinse it with water; all the clay and silt will float to the top and can be easily removed. Depending on the size of your sand particles (not all sand is equal! ), you can use anywhere from 40–60% sand.
It is best to start your seeds in at least a 1/2 gallon pot. This way, your plant will have plenty of time to develop before transplanting. Seed-starting trays are not ideal as you will have to transplant earlier in the plant’s life and potentially cause plant-stres.
Once you fill your pots, simply place the seed 1/2 inch to 1 inch under the soil. Give them a good watering, and place them somewhere with diffused light. Make sure they are watered regularly during the first 3-4 weeks of growth. I recommend not using a saucer or plate under the pots, as this can hold water and promote anaerobic conditions. This not only reduces oxygen content in the soil, but it also promotes a potentially toxic microbial community.
The first transplant can be conducted anywhere from 2-4 months after germination. Make sure the roots are well-developed and have created a sufficient structure in the soil. If you pull out your plant and the soil is loose, you’ve transplanted too early. This causes the soil and root structure to collapse, causing significant stress on the plant’s health. It also helps to not water for 24 hours before a transplant, so the soil is a bit dry.
Transplanting Into Pots
You can transplant it into a larger pot (4-5 gallons) or directly into the ground. If you plan to keep your plants in pots long-term, then consider planting them directly into their final pot to avoid transplanting regularly. Remember, this is a fast-growing tree and will quickly grow into any pot you give it! Regular transplanting is just more stressful for the plant’s growth.
Directly after transplanting, make sure to keep the soil moist. You can keep the plants in a semi-shady environment for about a week so they can recover from any stress that may have occurred during the transplant. Afterward, move into a sunny location with full sun if possible. The plant may take a week or two to adapt to its new location.
Transplanting Into Soil
If you plan to transplant directly into the ground, it is important to find a well-draining area that is in full sun and not prone to flooding of any sort. If your native soil lacks drainage or you live in an extremely wet climate, consider planting on a slope or in artificially made mounds. You can also dig drainage canals and use the soil from there to make a raised area for planting. Alternatively, you may want to bring in some soil to make a mound. You can also plant in a raised bed or box.
Before transplanting, you may choose to loosen the soil in your planting area. This is really only important if it is compacted. Do this in a circle at 2-3 feet in diameter from where you choose to plant and an equal distance down. If your soil is not severely compacted, you can do this to a lesser extent. Plants may benefit from a couple of gallons of compost mixed into the soil, although it may not be necessary.
During the transplant, avoid damaging the plant as much as possible. Wear gloves to protect yourself from any spines. If the plant is severely root bound, consider loosening the roots on the outside by hand.
Directly after transplanting, your plant may be stressed for 1-2 weeks. This may result in slowed growth and the closing of leaves, but after this time, it should adjust given that all other growth conditions are met.
A diagram explaining the logistics of planting on a raised mound. There is no need for water retention beams. Drainage channels leading to a creek, pond, or other area which needs water could be included.
Maintenance and Care
Once established, M. tenuiflora is a very hardy plant that requires little to no maintenance.
Watering: In the first couple months of establishment, it may benefit from some additional irrigation, but don’t be afraid to let the soil dry out. Remember, this plant is from an arid environment and can handle dry conditions. Generally speaking, M. hostilis does not require additional irrigation throughout its life.
Fertilization: While it is not absolutely necessary, you may choose to fertilize your plant with compost. This can be applied as a top-dressing, by simply putting several gallons of compost in the 1-2 foot perimeter around your trunk base. Some growers may choose to apply mulch, although this is not necessary. Adding compost could likely improve growth rates in areas with very infertile soils, although it may not do much if you already have good soil.
Other Things To Consider
⦁ During its growth, make sure to remove any plant debris that may accumulate near the trunk of the plant. These may be leaves, twigs, or mulch. If moist organic debris is in contact with the trunk, it could induce rotting.
⦁ Some growers may choose to remove the spines from the trunk of the plant. This is particularly true if the plant is somewhere you need to access or move through regularly. This can be done with hand clippers or a sharp knife.
⦁ While M. hostilis doesn’t require pruning, branches can be cut if needed. Make sure to do this with a sharp tool and at a 45-degree angle to avoid pooling in the branches. It is also best to conduct this during dry periods to avoid the risk of infections.
⦁ Remove weeds regularly from the perimeter around the tree trunk. This is especially important if anything is touching the trunk directly.